Choosing the Best Type of Plywood for Cabinets

As the popularity of European-style frameless cabinets grows, many cabinet makers are discovering that the composite plywood they’ve been using to produce framed cabinets isn’t performing as well as it should.

To compensate for the lack of a supporting frame, frameless cabinet building favours a cabinet box made of stronger, stiffer plywood. Using the same thinner plywood construction as a framed cabinet can result in a box that does not fulfil customer durability and longevity expectations.

That is why so many cabinet makers are switching to higher-quality hardwood plywood for their cabinetry, and homeowners are starting to request the same. To make the transition from framed to frameless cabinet box designs, you’ll need a higher quality plywood for Cabinets.

Thickness

The frame provides significant structural support in traditionally built face-framed cabinets. This allows for the use of thinner, less supporting materials in the cabinet inside.

Today’s trends and preferences are shifting, and more homeowners desire frameless cabinets, which necessitate a different type of cabinet construction and stronger materials.

While plywood for cabinets comes in sizes ranging from one-eighth-inch to three-quarter-inch, many fabricators choose domestic ANSI HP-1 nominal three-quarter-inch panels for their supporting capabilities. These panels can be used without bracing or nailing on the cabinet’s back and sides. This produces a large, frameless cabinet box that may be hung directly to the stud without the use of studs.

Columbia Forest Products manufactures a wide range of three-quarter-inch panel combinations, including a 7-ply panel with hardwood crossbands and our all-birch Europly Plus®. If the finished box weight is an issue, we can also make these panels in five-eighths-inch and half-inch thicknesses.

Decorative Veneers

The cabinet box’s structure is only one part of the puzzle. You must also have a cabinet that fits your design. That means selecting a plywood panel face and back grade that provides a superior look and finish to your interior and exterior surfaces, edges, and end panels.

In rare circumstances, Europly Plus with its characteristic all-birch, multi-ply edge may be preferable. The extra thin inner plies offer the cabinet’s finished edges a distinct visual appeal: there’s no need for edge band treatment, which exposes the plywood edges.

This style is ideal for doorless cabinets and shelving. It also works well for cabinets when you don’t want to cover the exposed plywood edge with an edge band or solid wood.

A plywood face can provide you a finished look for cabinet doors, regardless of the sort of plywood you’ve chosen for the box construction.

Columbia’s Appalachian Traditions line precisely meets the demand for the edge-glued lumber or “plank-matched” aesthetic. This series gives your design a “consistently inconsistent” look and adds a lot of character to doors, drawers, fronts, and end panels. Appalachian Traditions is available in the following species: birch, maple, oak, hickory, and cherry.

Columbia’s Beaded Panels provide design consistency and character for ornamental alternatives such as door inserts. The beaded groove look can be employed on engineered substrates with excellent thickness uniformity and bead groove depth (such as pMDI bonded MDF cores). Columbia may laminate your decorative hardwood of choice and groove the beads through its face, resulting in the MDF beaded reveal.

Drawers

Drawers require a different sort of construction than cabinet boxes, and while you can use the same face plywood for the drawer fronts, the box construction and lining may change.

On the drawer sides, use a sturdy plywood with a minimum of 5 plies. Cheaper laminated melamine particleboard drawer sides are simply not as structurally sturdy, which increases the possibility of installation callbacks. Drawer sides should be made of half-inch plywood for Cabinets, while drawer bottoms should be made of quarter-inch plywood.
Using our maple drawer sides, Columbia makes it simple to build great, long-lasting drawers. These are available in conventional 8-foot lengths in a range of ready-to-cut widths.

Each drawer side is notched to fit a quarter-inch drawer bottom. For a quality appearance that resists ordinary household stains, the sides are treated with a durable, factory-applied, UV-cured acrylated epoxy finish. Aromatic cedar panels can be used in place of drawer box bottoms when building drawers for chests, bathrooms or closets. These are suitable for those who appreciate cedar’s gorgeous appearance and aromatic aroma.

Curves

Cabinet design trends have shifted away from the solid, square lines and box cabinet construction that we’ve come to expect. Curved island cabinets and bow-front cabinets are becoming more popular in kitchen designs.

You’ll need the correct plywood substrate to accomplish this appearance. It should conform to your specifications while remaining strong enough to resist lamination and subsequent construction for ultimate use in the kitchen once done.

Radius® plywood from Columbia can assist meet this need. To fulfil project needs, radius can be made to bend in either the long or short grain direction. Furthermore, it is sold without a face or back to allow you to laminate or apply veneer to get the required appearance.

Each panel comes in 8-by-4 long grain or 4-by-8 cross grain, providing you options for how the finished curve will look as well as the length required to create oversized kitchen islands.

Quality is expected by homeowners.

Homeowners who are renovating their cabinetry anticipate that newly installed cabinetry will endure at least 20 to 30 years before needing repair. They want and demand a high-quality, long-lasting plywood box for their cabinets, regardless of the style or design. You can rely on Columbia Forest Products and its distribution partners to supply the highest quality plywood for Cabinets to ensure your clients’ happiness and referral.

Safety First: Choosing the Right Plywood for Your Project

Plywood is made up of heat-pressed resin-coated veneer pieces. That sounds simple enough, but things get a little more complicated when it comes to selecting the correct type and thickness of plywood for a work. Knowing the safety and strength requirements of any finished product allows you to select the appropriate type of plywood. Rating and grading of plywood Aside from thickness, plywood is classified based on its look and condition. The front side is usually of higher quality and consequently more appealing than the back. In general, A grade plywood has few flaws and is acceptable for painting, but D grade board has numerous knotholes and repairs.

Choosing the Right Plywood Used in Furniture

Many furniture fronts, such as drawer fronts and cabinet tops, feature high-grade plywood with attractive veneer. Most cabinet construction uses ¾” plywood, or else ½” plywood, which is usually less expensive, and makes the finished piece somewhat lighter. Lower grade veneers are fine for interior areas, where appearance is not so important. Drawer sides only require ½” thick plywood, and drawer bottoms need only ¼” thick plywood.

Although heavier, thicker plywood is stronger and more durable. For example, constructing a huge tables from 12″ plywood and supporting it just with legs at the corners will end in a dinnertime disaster. Many table-building plans specify thicknesses based on tabletop dimensions:

¾” plywood for smaller table tops, up to about 18” x 24”
1” plywood for tops up to 24” x 36
At least 1”, and, even better, 1 ½” for larger tables
Plywood is a popular choice for building entertainment units and shelving. However, while ¾” plywood may work fine for shelves less than 30” or so in length, the likelihood of mid-shelf sagging increases with shelf length.

Using thicker plywood reduces sag, especially over longer spans, avoiding potentially dangerous situations involving falling objects and collapsing furniture. Another option to avoid this issue is to reinforce the shelves with wood edging or by inserting mid-span supports.

Choosing the Right Plywood Options for Safe Flooring

Plywood is a vital component in providing safe and long-lasting flooring. Floors are made up of numerous layers. The final flooring is placed on top. The underlayment comes next, which provides the flat surface required for putting the top. Underlayment for varied surfaces is required, but all underlayment must be a thin but robust layer upon which the finished flooring surface sits. 5/8″ plywood is commonly used for floor underlayment. The subfloor lies beneath the underlayment and requires a thicker product, at least 34″ thick, and possibly more if the gap between floor joists is great.

Choosing the Right Plywood for Walls

Use only external quality plywood when weather exposure is a problem. Interior plywood is not waterproof, and its use in outdoor applications may cause major structural issues. Furthermore, weathering weakens the material’s integrity, resulting in collapses and weak places that can cause catastrophic injury.

The plywood used to wrap house frames does more than just offer a surface for installing siding. It also strengthens the framework by linking all of the studs. Furthermore, houses with siding that is merely attached to the plywood sheathing require thicker plywood. Thickness is less of a concern when the siding is fastened to the studs. Although 12″ thick plywood is customary for walls, the International Residential Code requires only 3/8″ wall sheathing when studs are placed 16″ apart and siding is connected to the studs rather than the plywood. The IRC mandates 12″ plywood for buildings with siding attached simply to the sheathing.

Choosing the Right Plywood for Roofing

For roofing, many municipal building requirements only demand 3/8″ plywood. Spending a little more money and utilising 12″ or even 5/8″ plywood results in a more durable and secure roof. Plywood that is only 3/8″ thick will frequently not support someone working on a roof, especially if the trusses and rafters are large and/or there is a lot of space between them. In high snow areas, the ability to handle higher weights is particularly essential. Furthermore, utilising thinner plywood for roofing provides less material for shingles to attach to, making the shingles more likely to fly off in strong wind circumstances.

When selecting plywood thicknesses, keep the finished product in mind. It is not worth the time and effort to create a piece of furniture that will droop in a reasonably short period of time. The same is true for building. Consider the meteorological conditions at the construction site, particularly severe winds. It only takes one major storm to demonstrate the value of spending a little more money on sturdier plywood.

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Simple Ways To Add Plywood Elements To Your Home Decor

Plywood helps a home’s interior decorating stand out, from handcrafted furniture to exquisite art. Plywood is useful for covering windows during a storm, and it may be found in a variety of construction projects. However, relegating it to construction and other “rough” operations means passing up a fantastic material ideal for producing one-of-a-kind home décor.

Fixtures and furniture that are built-in

Built-in furniture enhances the appearance of almost any room. It creates the idea of extra space in compact rooms while still providing ample storage. Built-ins provide warmth and cosiness to larger rooms. Creating a built-in with plywood involves some woodworking abilities, but it is doable with a little persistence and talent. Begin with a corner cabinet or butler’s pantry, which both provide visual interest and functional storage space. Consider building floating plywood shelves, which have no visible brackets or sides, providing them their “floating” aspect. In actuality, these shelves are supported by a simple yet durable wooden frame concealed by an exterior plywood case.Floating shelves provide refinement and finish to a room by being mounted to the wall with wood cleats fastened to wall studs. Because of the strength and longevity of plywood, many high-quality kitchen cabinets are made of it. Kitchen cabinets are subjected to a lot of wear and tear. They opened and closed again during the day, sometimes not so softly. They are subjected to moisture, grease, heat, and other elements. Plywood can withstand it all, which is why it is so popular for built-in furniture around the home.

Plywood Furnishings

Plywood veneers of high grade are ideal for exquisite furniture manufacturing. Outer plywood veneers exist in a variety of grades, and top rated sheets have rotary cut or sliced outer veneers made from high-quality hardwood from a variety of tree species. Stained high-grade plywood provides attractive furniture when handled properly. Many pieces of furniture simply require one 4′ x 8′ sheet of plywood. Tables make excellent use of the enormous size of plywood panels. Lumber tabletops are made up of multiple glued components. From end to end, plywood tabletops have a single continuous line of wood. However, the use of plywood is not restricted to tabletops. It also makes excellent table legs with thin, elegant lines that provide strength and stability.

Plywood is the preferred material for many cutting-edge, modern, and one-of-a-kind seats. Some include steam bending plywood to produce curved seating surfaces, while others entail cutting plywood sheets into unique forms. Because of the strength and durability of plywood, unique seating arrangements are available. Furniture made of plywood may have “stripes.” Plywood is made up of several layers of different timbers. While the upper layers of veneer may have lovely wood grain, the interior layers typically vary in colour, resulting in the “stripes.” It is up to you how you choose to deal with edge striping: Covering the Edges: If you want a more traditional look or are embarrassed to use plywood in your furniture, cover the edges.

Two of the more straightforward ways are:

Edge banding works well for both straight and curved edges and is easily applied with a heat gun and glue. ornamental moulding, applied with brads, conceals plywood edges and allows the ornamental edge to be coordinated with other pieces of furniture in the space. Embracing the distinctive “edgy” look: The layered aspect of plywood lends a great accent to many pieces of furniture with careful sanding and staining. In fact, Baltic birch plywood is prized for the elegance of its layered edges. This plywood is both beautiful and strong, thanks to even laminate layers made entirely of birch.

Innovative Plywood Applications

Artists find numerous means for artistic expression, much as people commonly define “fine art” with a “I’ll know it when I see it” attitude. Some painters utilise plywood as a canvas or to create interesting multi-depth wall hangings. Others make plywood sculptures, including the distinct look of veneer layers as an accent. Using plywood in sculpture, according to one such artist, converts a “rather ordinary material” into “an exotic visual experience.”

Do Not Disregard Plywood

Many people assume that only high-quality timbers belong in exquisite furniture. However, aside from cost savings, plywood with a good quality veneer has further advantages. Hardwood veneer plywood is more durable than solid pine or soft woods. It holds its shape better than many other types of wood. Most significantly, it can be quite lovely.

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How To Safely Use And Handle Plywood

Handle plywood, which is often offered in four foot by eight foot sheets, poses a bit of a problem in addition to the standard safety requirements involved in any woodworking operation. Hefting Safely Around a Massive Piece of Plywood The sheer immensity of plywood contributes to its greatness. Unfortunately, such trait is also one of its most difficult tasks. Consider the weight of a sheet of plywood. A full size sheet of 34″ hardwood plywood weighs around 55 pounds; certain kinds weigh an extra 10 or 15 pounds. While many adults can easily carry 55 pounds with very modest effort, lifting the weight of plywood is made more difficult by its uncomfortably huge and ungainly dimensions.Teamwork is the most effective way to move plywood.

Many do-it-yourselfers, though, take the “yourself” component to heart. American Woodworker recommends the following options for them:

When moving handle plywood sheets, use a rolling cart.

To transfer sheets, tie loops on either end of a 12-foot rope and wrap the loops around the bottom corners of a sheet; then, pull up on the centre of the rope for a “handle” and raise up (it will still be heavy, but less awkward to move).
If the project components do not require a full length of plywood, have it cut before loading it up for the journey to the shop.

Cutting

Saws of various kinds offer major safety hazards. Working with a huge material, such as a sheet of plywood, may raise the risk factor. Individualism is admirable, but if possible, enlist the assistance of others in the cutting process, at least when ripping the enormous sheet into smaller components. However, if a project is exclusively a solo endeavour, proceed with caution. All construction operations involving saws and cutting need the use of both safety eyewear and respirators. Ascertain that the saw is fitted with the appropriate blade for the material. If possible, create the initial crosscuts on plywood with a rotary saw. Place the sheet on sawhorses or a pair of 2x4s on the floor.

Using this procedure, you will receive a more exact cut than if you tried it on your own with a table saw, have a better chance of maintaining all digits, and avoid long-term scarring. If a table saw is the only option, use the following safety devices: A strong out-feed table that supports the plywood after it has passed through the cutting blade area (bigger shop carts with locking wheels, as well as conventional tables, may work)

When cutting larger pieces, use tables or sawhorses to give side support.

When used properly, a riving knife may remove almost all kickbacks that occur during ripping, and when combined with other good safety practises such as precise blade heights, blade guards, and stance, it considerably reduces the chance of table saw injury.

Dust

The majority of woodworkers wear eye protection to keep dust and debris out of their eyes. Many people, however, underestimate the importance of lung protection. Dust is produced when plywood is cut. Inhaling dust particles from almost any substance can result in respiratory problems ranging from moderate throat irritation to asthma or worse. Because most woodworking is done indoors, dust rapidly builds on surfaces and spews out from freshly cut surfaces.

Dust remediation systems are one way to reduce dust inhalation concerns. Many tools include an attachment for a dust remediation system or even a simple shop vac. There are even more complex systems that can meet the needs of a complete shop. The dust mask, on the other hand, is a simple and generally available solution that can be found almost everywhere that sells wood items. WEAR IT after reading the label to confirm it is intended for use in wood shops. Excellent Results Require Safety. Following safe plywood handling practises ensures excellent results on all fronts. Shortcuts are appealing, and the additional expenditure of safety devices may appear superfluous at first, but they pay off in the end.

Handling plywood, which is often offered in four foot by eight foot sheets, poses a bit of a problem in addition to the standard safety requirements involved in any woodworking operation. Hefting Safely Around a Massive Piece of Plywood The sheer immensity of plywood contributes to its greatness. Unfortunately, such trait is also one of its most difficult tasks. Consider the weight of a sheet of plywood. A full size sheet of 34″ hardwood plywood weighs around 55 pounds; certain kinds weigh an extra 10 or 15 pounds.While many adults can easily carry 55 pounds with very modest effort, lifting the weight of plywood is made more difficult by its uncomfortably huge and ungainly dimensions.

Teamwork is the most effective way to move plywood. Many do-it yourselfers, though, take the “yourself” component to heart.

American Woodworker recommends the following options for them:

When moving plywood sheets, use a rolling cart. To transfer sheets, tie loops on either end of a 12-foot rope and wrap the loops around the bottom corners of a sheet; then, pull up on the centre of the rope for a “handle” and raise up (it will still be heavy, but less awkward to move). If the project components do not require a full length of plywood, have it cut before loading it up for the journey to the shop.

Cutting

Saws of various kinds offer major safety hazards. Working with a huge material, such as a sheet of plywood, may raise the risk factor. Individualism is admirable, but if possible, enlist the assistance of others in the cutting process, at least when ripping the enormous sheet into smaller components. However, if a project is exclusively a solo endeavour, proceed with caution. All construction operations involving saws and cutting need the use of both safety eyewear and respirators. Ascertain that the saw is fitted with the appropriate blade for the material.

If possible, create the initial crosscuts on plywood with a rotary saw.

Place the sheet on sawhorses or a pair of 2x4s on the floor.

Using this procedure, you will receive a more exact cut than if you tried it on your own with a table saw, have a better chance of maintaining all digits, and avoid long-term scarring.

If a table saw is the only option, use the following safety devices:

A strong out feed table that supports the plywood after it has passed through the cutting blade area (bigger shop carts with locking wheels, as well as conventional tables, may work)

When cutting larger pieces, use tables or sawhorses to give side support.

A featherboard for moving materials towards the sawblade that holds the material up against the rip fence of the saw, reducing the possibility of backlash and bent sawblades. When used properly, a riving knife may remove almost all kickbacks that occur during ripping, and when combined with other good safety practises such as precise blade heights, blade guards, and stance, it considerably reduces the chance of table saw injury.

Dust

The majority of woodworkers wear eye protection to keep dust and debris out of their eyes. Many people, however, underestimate the importance of lung protection. Dust is produced when plywood is cut. Inhaling dust particles from almost any substance can result in respiratory problems ranging from moderate throat irritation to asthma or worse. Because most woodworking is done indoors, dust rapidly builds on surfaces and spews out from freshly cut surfaces. Dust remediation systems are one way to reduce dust inhalation concerns. Many tools include an attachment for a dust remediation system or even a simple shop vac. There are even more complex systems that can meet the needs of a complete shop.

The dust mask, on the other hand, is a simple and generally available solution that can be found almost everywhere that sells wood items. WEAR IT after reading the label to confirm it is intended for use in wood shops. Excellent Results Require Safety. Following safe plywood handling practises ensures excellent results on all fronts. Shortcuts are appealing, and the additional expenditure of safety devices may appear superfluous at first, but they pay off in the end.

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What Are the Different Grades of Plywood?

If you’re looking for the correct grade of plywood for your project, you’ve certainly seen that there are plenty to pick from. The diversity might be overwhelming, and the labelling can further complicate matters. What are the different grades of plywood? Plywood veneer grades are classified into four categories. These are letters A, B, C, and D. There are two grades of plywood in each sheet of plywood. This compound is represented by the letters AB, AC, and so on.

The first letter reflects the grade of the face veneer, while the second letter denotes the grade of the rear veneer.

If the plywood compound has an X at the end, it is “exposure” plywood and can be exposed to some dampness. The letters progress in the same way that grades do in school, with A being the highest and D being the lowest.

Different Grades of Plywood

A-grade plywood: The highest quality and most expensive plywood, as most sheets will be free of faults. This is a wonderful alternative if you want smooth plywood that can be easily painted.

B-grade plywood is another alternative for a nearly perfect sheet of plywood. B-grade plywood has a solid basis and a fairly smooth surface. This plywood may have been repaired, but B-grade would contain only minor faults.

C-grade plywood is of lower quality and has knots up to 1.5 inches in diameter across its sheets.

D-grade plywood sheets are the most affordable. They haven’t been corrected, therefore the defects are larger and more visible. This plywood grade can have knots up to 2.5 inches long.
Difference Between Project Plywood and Construction
Construction plywood is a widespread material for building garages and roofing houses, as well as for household projects such as cabinet construction.

Here are some labels that distinguish the two:

CDX: CDX-grade plywood is a low-cost plywood material composed of the two lowest classes, C and D. The X indicates that this material can resist some moisture exposure. CDX is frequently used to create work tables and storage units.

Sanded Pine: Sanded pine is a versatile type of plywood. It has a clean and smooth surface and is good at holding nails and screws. This type of plywood is often utilised in the construction of cabinets and boxes.

Baltic Birch: Baltic birch is another versatile plywood material. This is a more expensive option because of its clean edges and beautiful finish.

Plywood Options for Indoor and Outdoor Use

Even while most plywood makers will be upfront about whether or not a material can survive external elements, it’s useful to have a basic awareness of the specs of each type of plywood.

Plywood for Indoor Applications

Sanded plywood: Pine veneer is a fantastic alternative for a high-quality plywood material that can be utilised indoors. Sanded Pine BC or Sandeply could be used to label this material. It’s a low-cost material utilised for tasks like cabinetry and shop furnishings.

Oriented Strand Board: Also known as wafer board, Oriented strand board has a flaky appearance due to the fact that it is formed from wood chips. This sort of plywood sheet features a patchwork design with wood chips glued together in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colours.

Plywood for Outdoor Applications

Although some Different Grades of Plywood may endure snow, rain, and other external elements, there is no guarantee that plywood will last. This will be determined by moisture, heat, and other environmental conditions.

Pressure-treated plywood: If you want a plywood that is resistant to mould and mildew, pressure-treated plywood has been chemically treated to keep it safe. Without paint or any form of protective coating, this material might persist for years.

CDX sheathing: Made from the two lowest grades of plywood, C and D, this type of plywood material is used for sheathing. It’s a cheap material that shouldn’t be left exposed. Roofs, storage bins, and garages are often covered with bricks or shingles.

We have a vast assortment of plywood options at Forest Plywood so you can discover the correct plywood grade for your next project.

What Type of Plywood is Best For Outdoor Use? 

Plywood is the preferred building material for many projects due to its resilience, adaptability, and low cost. However, not all type of plywood is created equal. It’s critical to select the correct plywood for your project, especially if you’re working outside and need it to endure the elements. There are several types of exterior plywood to choose from when working on an outdoor project like a deck, shelving, or even a boat! The type of Plywood’s construction grade is vital, but so is its appearance and feel, depending on how you intend to utilise it.

How Does Plywood Get Used Outside?

Exterior plywood is weather (and water) resistant, making it suitable for use both outside and in spaces subject to moisture and humidity, such as a garage. This form of plywood, which is frequently constructed of Douglas fir, is strengthened by glueing its layers together with a waterproof glueing.

Which Exterior Plywoods Can Be Used Outside?

There are several varieties of type of plywood available, the most prevalent being CDX or ACX. To indicate this purpose, exterior plywood is marked with an X, and the construction grade is in the first two letters; the first letter relates to the front of the plywood, and the second letter refers to the rear. A is a premium grade that can be used on cabinetry and other high-end applications where appearance is important. CDX is a less expensive construction grade choice that is nonetheless strong and will not collapse after a rainfall. Veneers, high-density hardwood, or light hardwood can be used to create the layers.

While identical to regular exterior plywoods, marine plywood is the highest quality (AA, AB, and BB), made of knot-free wood. Knot removal in wood improves durability by almost eliminating the potential of water pockets accumulating within the wood. Because it is less prone to breaking when being shaped, marine plywood is used to create boats and other marine applications. If you image the curve of a boat — and then think what would happen if it cracked — you’re not in good shape. It’s also easier to cut and sand, resulting in smoother edges. This sort of plywood can also be used to make aircraft, as well as outdoor furniture and constructions.

Pressure treated plywood, overlay plywood, oriented strand board (OSB), and T1-11 are some other forms of external plywood. Pressure treated plywood is normal plywood that has been impregnated with chemicals that increase its resistance to mould and mildew. Overlaid is similar to ACX or CDX, but with a cleaner finish that is not only more appealing but also more resistant to wear and tear. OSB is a manufactured replacement that works well in places that are only partially exposed to the elements. T1-11 is the most often used siding material.

What Is the Distinction Between Exterior Plywoods?

The main distinctions between external plywood kinds are their construction and cost. Because of its appearance and composition, marine plywood is frequently the most expensive.

CDX is the least expensive option, but it doesn’t mean it won’t last outside. It’s better suited as the inner-core for a project that will be covered in siding, rather than as the focal point of a piece of furniture or a pergola. ACX is a nice compromise: it is less expensive than marine plywood but more appealing than CDX.

Aside from cost and appearance, each type of exterior plywood has a varied thickness and weight, which affects the weight of the plywood and, as a result, the best ways to utilise it. Marine plywood is the heaviest, which is ideal for the durability of a seat in your yard or on a boardwalk, but it may buckle under the weight if used as shelving or cladding.

Fortunately, there are numerous exterior plywoods to choose from for your outdoor building needs, and selecting the appropriate one should not be difficult. It’s best to speak with an expert who can evaluate both your budget and your needs to assist you choose the best plywood for your project.

What Is Okoume Plywood and How Can I Use It?

Okoume plywood, pronounced oh-kuh-mey, is manufactured from the Okoume tree’s wood. It has a pinkish-brown or pale crimson tint and is also known as Okoume Mahogany. Okoume has a homogeneous texture and a straight to barely wavy grain that seems interlocking and appealing.

Okoume plywood is extensively used in the construction of racing boats and other applications requiring lightweight wood. Because of its shiny appearance, it can also be utilised to create furniture or on kitchen cabinets.

The History of Okoume Plywood

Okoume, or Aucoumea klaineana, is an African hardwood found exclusively in the Congo, Gabon, and equatorial Guinea. The tree develops in dense stands and can reach heights of more than 100 feet.

It also grows swiftly, so regeneration is rarely an issue. Okoume Mahogany is a misnomer because it is not genuine mahogany.

No Okoume logs are permitted to leave Gabon, where Joubert’s Okoume is sourced. The veneer mill must be located in Gabon so that it can support the local economy. To guarantee sustainability, no more than 7% of Joubert’s Okoume can be harvested per year.

Quality, Size, and Thickness of Okoume Plywood

Okoume wood is a high-quality product that is available in 4′ x 8′ two-sided marine grade panels with thicknesses ranging from 18″ to 1″. It is exceedingly soft, and Okoume plywood is usually not pressure treated. To provide strength,To increase strength, the core might be composed of pine, poplar, or hardwood. Okoume weighs more than 25 pounds per cubic foot. Okoume: How to Use It Plywood Okoume is typically utilised in marine applications, although it can also be used in other applications if the edges and faces are well sealed. It is the easiest of the marine plywoods to flex, making stitch-and-glue boat construction much easier than if fir was used. Okoume is a strong, lightweight, and visually appealing material that is ideal for woodworking. Okoume plywood, for example, can be used to reface kitchen cabinets.

The Negatives of Okoume Plywood

Okoume is not the most durable wood on the market. Because it is rot-prone, it requires a fibreglass or epoxy coating. It must be sealed to prevent moisture from entering, which is why most okoume panels are painted and coated with epoxy and varnish to avoid difficulties caused by exposure to the environment.

Okoume Plywood Prices

Prices vary according on thickness, core quality, source, and shipping fees. Okoume plywood may cost more than other types of wood due to the expense of shipping.

Joubert Okoume is the best marine plywood on the market today. Lloyd’s of London has confirmed that it is made in accordance with British Standard 1088.We have 48″ x 98″ and various sizes in stock. Joubert’s plywood has the highest level of certification offered by the Foresmate Stewardship Council, which incorporates “chain of custody” standards to benefit the surrounding community as well as the workers’ well-being. Okoume’s diverse applications and distinct characteristics make it an excellent choice for your next project, whether you’re building a boat or not

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